Our YachtBalvenie blog has been going a few years now. It captures our experiences around the world as we explore by sea in our 47ft sloop "Balvenie" (draft is nearly 2.5m). This blog is the summary of our Cruising Info for all the places we have visited since we started the blog (so it does not have the beginning of our adventure). I have collated the cruising info here together for those that just wish to print it off, without having all the photos and stories that accompany it. For our entire story and all the great photos see http://yachtbalvenie.blogspot.com/

As always please remember these were our experiences which may be entirely different to others. All care has been taken with this information, and as with any navigational aids should be treated as a guideline. If you are following in our wake, have fun out there and stay off the hard stuff!!

Sunday, March 25, 2012

The Grenadines – Canouan to Union Island….. Jan/Feb 2012

CANOUAN – Charlestown Bay  12 42N  61 19W 
5.5m clear water, sandy bottom.  Only stayed the night and never went ashore but it really looked rather pleasant.   Lovely clear water, easy enough access through the fringing reef and port/starboard markers were in place.   A little roll but not too bothersome.  Unlocked wifi, good signal.  The island is dominated by a low rise resort complex with just a very small town.  We didn’t need to clear in as we had already checked into “St Vincent and the Grenadines” in Bequia but other cruisers managed to check in at the airport but said it wasn’t that straightforward, check in charges apply.  The pass between the islands of Bequia and Canouan was pretty lively with 25 knots N/E blowing and big seas.
To read our full posting with photos on Canouan on our Yacht Balvenie Blog click here

MAYREAU – Saline Bay  12 38.16N  61 23.89W
4.5m sand and weed bottom.  Didn’t hold the first couple of places we tried as too much weed but found a sandy patch here on the left side of the bay.  Keep out of the way of the main dock, the ferries come in at speed but there are only a couple a day so not bothersome, one does come at night, make sure you have a good anchor light.  The wind seemed to be less on this side of the bay also.  We would have liked to stop at Saltwhistle Bay a little further north but it is tiny and was filled to capacity.  We tied up our dinghy at the other smaller dock.  On one occasion one of the locals “looked after it” for EC$5, he wanted more we felt no threat leaving it there and didn’t feel it needed protection! Rubbish dump inland behind beach on the right, bit of a walk but nowhere to drop it.  Again we didn’t need to check in but there didn’t appear to be any facilities here anyway.  Lovely sandy beach but frequented by Cruise Ships that anchor off and ferry passengers ashore during the day.  Steep walk up hill, small minimarkets on left, internet (nowhere ashore had wifi but did get very random signals on boat with aerial) Walk right to the top to the Catholic Church on the right, lovely little old church and outstanding view around the back of it of Tobago Cays. Bakery opposite church but random opening hours.  A couple of colourful shacky reggae bars up the hill, stalls selling t-shirts, rasta hats etc by dock.  Quite a good snorkel off rocks at north end of bay, snorkelling on the wreck was no good. Very laid back place.
To read our full posting with photos on Mayreau on our Yacht Balvenie blog click here 

TOBAGO CAYS – 2 anchorages below

Petit Rameau – 12 38.15N 61 21.74W
We went around the bottom of Mayreau and up through the reefs in good light but 25 – 30 knots wind.  Best to do with good visibility (sun high in the sky NOT looking into it).  Dropped in 3 metres sand, settled back into around 8m just behind the little island, some boats anchored in the channel between the 2 islands there looked to be much more current there.  We had good shelter from the wind here (it was over 25 knots and we were getting around 15 knots) but sea was a little choppy.   Easy dinghy ride across to the larger island and a good short walk to the top for great view (need shoes).  Park Rangers came and collected our Park fee of EC$10 per person per night ( we were not approached the following day so only paid one night)  A couple of little stalls ashore selling t-shirts etc, nothing else. No wifi, don’t even think we had phone signal.   We did not go through this passage to get around to the main anchorage, we took the longer way around, it looked very shallow but many boats went through. 

Baradal Island – 12 37.98N  61 21.41W
Nudge right in close to the netting for the turtle enclosure and drop anchor in a sandy patch in around 3 metres, fall back into around 7 – 10 metres.  If you don’t go up close someone will try to anchor in front of you, this is a seriously busy place!!!  We had the full force of the wind here but seas were flat and no swell.   You can either swim up to the Turtle Enclosure or dinghy to the little island with the sandy beach.  The water was very murky when we were there, we saw 3 turtles.  You can snorkel on the other side of the island but there were about 30 kite surfers whizzing through there and snorkelling did not look a safe option.  Snorkelling on the outer reef edge is supposed to be very good but in 25 – 30 knots of wind we did not think this was safe either.  This would be a magic but always busy place in light breezes.   Park fees as above if ranger comes around.  No cafes, bars, wifi – just escape from it all!!
To read our full posting on the Tobago Cays with photos from our Yacht Balvenie Blog click here

PALM ISLAND – did not stay
Has good reef coverage both ends but we could not get out of the swell and it was too rolly to stay, looked cute though, resort ashore.  Clear water

UNION ISLAND – 2 anchorages below

Frigate Island – 12 34.93N  61 26.31W
After leaving Tobago Cays firstly we went to Palm Island but it was too rolly.  Then we went to Clifton but it was very full and we were still getting over 25 knots and did not feel happy trying to squeeze in so we went another couple of miles west to the Frigate Island anchorage, anchored behind the isthmus which was high enough to offer respite from the wind at deck level and flat water.  Dropped in 3m settled in 3.5m, (maybe mud – murky bottom) probably should have tried to nudge in even further.  Great for a calm nights sleep but nothing there except for a strong unlocked wifi signal.  Would be possible to do long dinghy ride ashore and walk to Clifton

Clifton Harbour – 12 35.66N  61 24.67W
2 mile bash to windward to get back to Clifton.  Anchorage had emptied out and winds eased to a manageable 20 knots.  We anchored just by the Happy Island Bar, nudged right into very shallow clear water in sand to drop by the reef, settled back in around 6m.  Water was flat, much better than over western side (on the other side of the roundabout reef) where some swell was coming around the southern reef.   There were boat boys offering mooring buoys, they were quite persistent until we dropped a little anchor chain down then they left us alone.  We took the dinghy into the resort furthest to the right, (name forgotten)they had a dinghy dock, with a very helpful staff member.  Wifi but not good signal.  There was a small charge but it was valid as a credit towards drinks, however the coffee was undrinkable and when we went back at happy hour they had run of beers, all rather run down, real shame as great spot.  Walk along the water into town, just before the very colourful main square area there are the offices for checking in/out of St Vincent and the Grenadines on the right side of the street.  Make sure you are not there around lunch time as they will charge overtime, ask first!  The street behind there has a bank with ATM and a supermarket (nothing great).   In the main colourful square there are many fruit/veg vendors.  Prices about the same as we have been paying since Bequia.  Some have fridges with salad goodies, herbs etc, just ask.  Down the main street a little further on the left is another covered stall fruit/veg market.   Close by on the same side was another “supermarket” not good either but it did have Grenada courtesy flags for EC$20 (and an open bible on the counter).  Opposite a small French deli had lots of foreign goodies at a price.  There was a Digicell store, it was the first colourful building you come to.  We managed to get the same unlocked wifi signal we had had in Frigate Bay but not too good here, ok for checking emails but that was about it.   We had dinner ashore upstairs in the Big City, a little tricky to find the stairs to enter it, they had hot local counter food at very cheap prices (conch cost more).  It’s where the locals eat , NO alcohol served.  Excellent cheap and cheerful meal.  Water available at a dock (has big sign), can’t remember price but thought it was expensive.
To read our full posting with photos on Union Island on our Yacht Balvenie Blog click on click here