I have mixed Turkey and Greece together here as we kept going backwards and forwards between them. We did not check out of Turkey until our last stop in Cannakale. This covers the beginning of our 2009 season from when we left Netsel Marina in Marmaris in April 2009, we stayed first in anchorages we had been in last season, so this starts in the first new anchorage.
Cruising Info for Nisyros in the Greek Dodecanese - April 2009:
Anchorage -
Pali ... Entry in breakwater now faces due east, we stern-tied to Northern wall in 3m, some side tied. Bollard rusty and started wearing through our mooring line. New south wall in good condition, 4 yachts stern-tied, unsure of depth over there. No charges made while we were there in April. There were power boxes and water that all looked new but didn't yet work. Mandhraki also looked fine, shelter not as good as Pali but quite large, ferries go in there.
Money - Didn't find ATM machine. Is supposed to be one in town and one at Mandhraki harbour but didn't see them
Provisions - Fuel Station on road to Mandhraki. A few small grocery/fruit-veg and bakeries in Mandhraki. Bakery in Pali a little way out on the road east along the beachSightseeing - easy to do everything in a day by scooter. There is a walking path to the volcano, around 9kms each way, it would be a long, hard day
Internet - No wifi signals at all and didn't
Cruising Info for Bodrum on the Turkish Mainland - April 2009:
Anchorage - Up in the bay to the east of the castle amongst the gulets. Good holding, just a little noisy a night!!
Money - ATM's everywhere, some dispense Euro alsoProvisions - Everything available, Tansas Supermarket behind the otogar, a few of blocks back from the beach, Carrefour and Marks & Spencers by the Marina,Fruit and Veg market by Tansas on Friday
Sightseeing - Bodrum Castle/Underwater Archaeological Museum. We spent around 3 hours in the castle and the 10Lira pp entrance was well worth it.
Internet - Couldn't pick up any unlocked signals at anchor, some free wifi cafes ashore
Cruising Info for Kalymnos, Leros, Patmos and Oinoussa in Greece abd Agriler Liman on Turkey - April/May 2009:
Anchorages
Atki Liman - East Coast of Kalymnos. 36 57.51N 27 01.96E 16m Very clear water, could have gone closer in. Good holding, beautiful spot
Lakki Harbour - West Coast of Leros. 37 07.59N 26 50.82E 10m Outside wall used for ferries so keep well enough clear
East Coast of Patmos - Skala Harbour - Anchored one night 37 19.70N 26 32.74E 10m good holding not much swinging room. Then 3 nights on the wall side tied, 3.5m. Did not check in with harbour master, no charges collected
Agriler Liman - Cesme Peninsular. 38 15.24N 26 23.41E 8m good holding, also marina there. Beware charted shallows on way in on port, no danger marks on them
Mandhraki Harbour - Southern Coast of Oinoussa. Side tied on wall 38 30.85N 26 12.98E only 2.4m, nudged bottom on way out. Asked to check in with port police in morning and asked to leave for Chios or Lesvos to check into Greece (we had done well getting this far unchecked)
Money - Saw ATM's on Leros and Patmos
Provisions - Leros had a few small stores. Patmos good selection of meats, groceries and alcohol. Oinoussa had a small supermarket and veg shop up the hill but were closed. Bread had to be ordered in advance
Sightseeing - Patmos Monasteries well worth it, free entry
Internet - Leros, internet cafe on shorefront 1€ for 20minutes!! Patmos, got wifi on boat. Nothing at the others
Cruising Info for Eski Foca, Bademli Liman and Ayvalik on the Turkish West Coast :
Anchorages -
Eski Foca - 38 40.52N 26 44.80E 7m very good holding. This was a couple of km's from the town but had better protection for the strong NE winds. Took dinghy ashore, several little jetties - some with signs forbidding usage (big navy/army presence here)
Bademli Liman - 39 00.92N 26 48.33E 9m Superglue mud - excellent holding. Tried anchoring off small beach to north first but would not hold there. Had SW afternoon seabreezes 10-15knots and NE landbreezes overnight 10-15knots but flat water. Longish dinghy ride into small boat harbour. There were a couple of smaller yachts inside the "breakwater" looked shallow though.
Ayvalik @ Camlik Koyu - 39 17.46N 26 39.85E 3.6m holding good. Dinghy ashore to beach or small jetty by closed restaurant. Long pleasant walk to town or bus
Money - ATM's in Eski Foca and Ayvalik, closest to Bademli is at Dikili a dolmus ride away
Provisions - Eski Foca Tuesday Market Day, small Tansas at the harbour. Bademli water tap at fishing dock, not always turned on. About 10mins walk to village with a couple of small shops with fruit, veg, bread. Ayvalik, nothing at anchorage but Migros and Tansas in town
Sightseeing - Trip to Pergamum Walk to Bademli Village (tie up dinghy and go inland about 10mins) Dolmus to Dikili hourly at half past 2.50L pp. Stay on till end at otogar. Bus to Bergama on the hour (so only about 10mins wait) 4L pp. Otogar apprx 7kms out of town. We got an (almost)English speaking taxi driver and negotiated 50L to do the sights, stop for lunch and back to otogar. There was a council bus that would have got us into town but then another few km's (all uphill) to Acropolis - entry 20L pp, Red Basilica - entry 5L pp
Internet - Eski Foca, from boat if we had been closer as cafe with wifi on shorefront. Internet cafes in backstreet 1.50L p/h. Nothing in Bademli. Ayvalik nothing at anchor, on walk into town we stopped at a cafe with free wifi for lunch and internet cafes in town 1.50L p/h
Cruising Info for Sivrice and Bozccada on the Turkish West Coast - May 2009:
Anchorages -
Sivrice - 39 28.42N 26 13.75E 11.9m good holding. Reasonable shelter from East to Northwest. Nothing there
Bozcaada - Northern harbour wall, 3.6m drop anchor and stern tie to new wall. Keep well off as occasional surge from wakes. Water and power on dock included in 50Lira nightly fee (we thought too expensive for what was there), transit log checked. Stores and cafes ashore. Accessed unlocked wifi onboard. Dont remember seeing ATM but Lonely Planet says there is one next to PO. Impressive Fort right in harbour.
Cruising Info for the Anzac Cove and Gallipoli Area of Turkey - May 2009:
Anchorages -
Anzac Cove - 40 14.05N 26 16.25E 7.8m good holding on sand with patches of weed. Exposed to all but east
North Beach - 40 14.52N 26 16.70E 4.9m good holding on sand. Better protection but totally exposed NW to SW
Kabatepe Harbour - 40 12.02N 26 16.70E 5.2m stern tied in southeast corner by ramp (a tricky manoeuvre as no one to take our lines!!). Large ferry 3 times a day on western wall, backs into ramp on southwest corner. Charge of 31Lira for 2 nights, think same price if we had stayed longer. Transit log checked. Small shop/cafe ashore.
V Beach - 40 04.44N 26 10.95E 5.4m sand just stopped a couple of hours
Sightseeing - Kabatepe Museum 3L p/p. No taxis at harbour - time for plenty of exercise in this lovely national park!
Cruising Info for Canakkale - May 2009:
Anchorages -
Canakkale - 40 09.134N 26 24.259E 3.4m bow to. Staff on dock will pass mooring line for bow/stern. Saw 2.8m on way in. No showers etc. Cost under 12m 55L p/n over 12m 75L p/n. Transit log checked. Pricey spot but we are sitting out strong Northerly winds and it is reasonably sheltered, no wake at all from the many passing ships and cross channel ferries.
It looks possible to anchor in calm waters out of the way of the marina entrance to the left around 40 09.40N 26 24.44E, flat water in these winds, but pretty shallow. We encountered around 3 knots worse case counter current coming up the straits. We came up the north coast and didn't cross over until 'The Narrows' at Canakkale. We are looking forward to a fast ride back down! Excellent downtown location with all city facilities.
Internet - No wifi onboard (marina signal currently broken!!) but can use computer in marina office if you can cope with the heavy smoke, plus a couple wifi cafes (Ghetto is one) on shorefront and internet cafes by clocktower 2L p/h.
Provisions - Diesel tanker has been delivering to large launches, unsure of minimum required. Water and power on dock. Carrefour supermarket about 10minutes walk
Formalities - Will add checkout details when completed but no compulsary agent here, actually no agent at all must do yourself. Marina staff very helpful but speak almost no English.
Sightseeing - Trip to Troy by dolmus ...
Dolmus from under Sari River bridge (as per LP map) In weekend 10am, 11.30am, 1pm, 2.30pm, weekdays more regulary. 4Lira p/p each way. About 30 minutes.
Entrance fee to Troy 15Lira p/p
