Passage to Providencia
We ended up in Panama for the summer/hurricane season. We had carefully watched the weather for this dead end corner of the Caribbean for many months and knew that there was a small window to get north from Panama, with the least amount of pain. The hurricane season “officially” ends 01 Dec, many boats start heading north during November as there are sometimes westerly winds, although they are very fickle. You also run the risk of a late season hurricane forming in the Western Caribbean, which is possible, and are left with no where to run. The weather had been appalling in Shelter Bay Marina, Colon during November – days and days of rain – so we weren’t inspired to leave. We finally pulled out 30 Nov and did a short sail east to Portobelo, this improves the angle ever so slightly for laying Providencia. We had originally wanted to explore the Boco del Toros area of Panama but as it lies further west it tighten the angle even more for the trip to Providencia so we ended up missing it. We left Portobelo 7.30am on December 01 and did a night arrival into Providencia on December 04 at 1.30am, it took us 66 hours to cover the 255 miles direct route, we put in several tacks, sailed hard on the wind every inch of the way in very light winds and moderate seas except for the occasional 25knot squall. Friends that left a day before us had very squally conditions and uncomfortable seas, a yacht that left a week after us from Boco del Toros was dismasted. This is definitely a passage to pick a good weather window for and to try and get done before the infamous Christmas Trades set in. The other option is to try for a window across to Cartagena on the Colombian Mainland and then have more of a downwind passage to Providencia. That stretch of water can get very lively when the trades are blowing and some very big seas are not unusual.
Entry into Providencia
Looking at the charts it shows miles of shallows, several markers that don’t appear to go anywhere and it is very confusing. We did a night arrival and it was straightforward. There is a lit sea buoy (shows on CMaps) at 13 24.00N 81 23 .71W, it flashes white. Head to it keeping well offshore then you turn towards land down a wide entry channel (approx 143 mag, there were leading lights onshore but they were hard to pick out as they were the same yellowish colour as other lights nearby). Coastal traders and the small Navy ship come in this channel, there are 3 red markers on starboard and 2 green markers on port. One was not working on our arrival but it was repaired within two days. The chart shows this channel going over a reef, it shallowed down to around 4 metres at this point. At the last green marker (approx 13 22.61N 81 22.68W) turn left towards Santa Catalina (almost due north) try to stay left keeping out of the channel to the dock (used day and night). This is around 3.5m – 4m and it holds this depth quite some distance in, so take it slowly and nudge in. We anchored at 13 22.70N 81 22.50W in 3.5m thick mud. Try to tuck up as far as you can, when the wind went to the North a slight swell did creep into the back of the anchorage.
Ashore
At anchor 04 – 16 December 2012. Call Bush Agency on VHF 16 on arrival. Mr Bush (English speaking) seems to be the only local agent and it didn’t seem an option to side step him and try to check in independently. There are several opinions of his service and costs on various sites, he is quite abrupt on the radio but well mannered, pleasant and helpful in person. He will arrange a time to meet you on the dock to process your papers. He asked for us to come in a couple of times during our stay but we didn’t until we wanted to arrange our departure, this didn’t create a problem. You need to give him at least a days notice of departure. No payment until you leave, we were charged USD140, Colombia is not a cheap place to check in and out of! Take dinghy to the left of the big dock and tie up at long dock that runs across the front of the town square. Town is right there, takes 10 minutes to see it all. Exchange rate Dec 2012 USD10 = COP16,500. A few small supermarkets on road that runs inland slightly up the hill have reasonable provisions but poor fresh produce, most appeared dead on arrival ~ may well come from mainland on unrefrigerated trader. Three supermarkets up here. One on right will exchange USD, or there is an ATM at Bank on town square by dinghy dock. Bakery on road up hill on right side has very good wholemeal bread. A couple of small hardware stores also up here, and keep walking about 500metres for the small hospital on left. Back down by the dinghy dock looking towards land on right side, ground floor old very handsome but rather dilapidated old wooden building there is a small kiosk that you can buy a Simcard or Chip as they call them for phone/internet. The chip cost 19,000 (may get English or Spanish speaker) can buy credit here OR, go across road to Internet Cafe and very helpful English speaking lady activated it and sold the credit which was 20,000 for one weeks/1.5GB internet, daily was 3,500 and we when we activated for another day it gave us three days which was good as we also picked up the signal after we left when anchored up at Low Cay. We did pick up an unlocked WIFI signal at anchor but it was very fluky. Petrol/Diesel Can take dinghy across to far right end of board walk, might need to paddle last part, tie up, walk along road maybe 150 metres to Gas Station or get while you have your mule. Petrol was 10,000COP a gallon, didn’t need diesel but it was less. Eating Out A real lack of choice, Bamboo Hut has closed down, we had dinner ashore one night but it was very average. All up Providencia was a great stopover, a very clean, well kept island with the islanders seemingly proud of their home ~ after Panama is was very refreshing.
Activities
Mule Hire (has 4 wheels not 4 legs) To see the island you either hire a mule (sort of a dune buggy) or a motorbike, we shared a mule its 100,000COP total so not cheap (our half 50,000) includes fuel, we got ours from Camila Rentals which was in a hardware store on road up hill just by bakery. Loads of places had them for hire, all same price. You can drive around the island in no time, but there are little side roads to explore, stunning South West Bay to linger over a very long lunch, photos to take and a few short walks to stretch the legs, or the big hike up to the summit. Make sure you do the walk across “Lover Lane” bridge that joins Providencia and Santa Catalina, turn left and do the walk all the way out to Morgans Head. Board Walk first, then steps up and down, then lovely well tended bush walk along coast to end, return same way, allow 3 hours with loads of time for stops and swim at Pirates Cove. Then take the dinghy out to Morgans Head and snorkel all the way back to headland under the steps, saw fish we hadn’t seen before, a big eel, a yellow spotted ray, the most beautiful shell ever, some lovely corals and reasonable amount and mix of fish. We did this most days as it was sheltered from the wind and a very pleasant way to get exercise.
Other Anchorages
Anchoring before the last green cannel buoy just off the cute little beach on Santa Catalina before the main anchorage looked feasible, there was plenty of depth and would be a good option in stronger Northers, although when the wind was from the north there was a swell creeping in so maybe a little rolly.
Low Cay - There are not too many places on the CMap charts it notes “Good Anchorage”, but inside the reef to the east of the lighthouse at Low Cay it does so we decided to spend one night there on our journey to Honduras. We anchored at 13 31.147N 81 20.085W in 10m on a sandy patch. The reef is not as solid as we would have hoped and there was alot of water coming over and through gaps in the reef. We were there in light easterlies and didn’t think much of it. Snorkelling was ok but very choppy and hard work. Still had phone coverage good enough for internet.
To read our full blog postings about the journey to and from Providencia and our time there click here for our other blog
