Colombia – Santa Marta, Rosarios & San Bernardos ….. April 2012

Passage Aruba to Colombia – We spent many mornings during February and March listening to fellow cruisers checking in on our morning net who were underway from the ABC’s to either Colombia or Panama.  During a good part of the trade wind season this piece of water at the top of Colombia has the reputation as being the 5th worst in the world, from the conditions encountered by almost all of the fleet that went through at this time it lived up to its reputation. All of them were very experienced sailors. Very big seas were reported, combining with some mean winds whipping down off the Andes, and sometimes an adverse current produced very confused seas.    It certainly wasn’t a passage we were looking forward to but as we were not under a timeframe pressure to transit the Panama Canal we had the luxury of waiting until the winds eased and the swell settled.

We departed from the southern anchorage on Aruba 8.30am 05/04/2012 and arrived into the marina in Santa Marta, Colombia 4pm 07/04/2012, we only motored one hour of the 281 mile passage.  We left with a weather window indicating no more than 15 knots from the North east, most of the time we had less until we closed on Santa Marta and had over 20 knots with the afternoon sea breeze while trying to douse the cruising chute!  The sea state was changeable, very flat and comfortable for the most part but we also went across some very agitated patches that we imagine could have been quite nasty in strong winds.  For a lot of the time we had current against us, sometimes over 2 knots.

Arrival into Colombia – We chose not to stop enroute down the Colombian coast although we had looked at the options.  Our weather window was so good we decided to keep going and get the miles behind us.  The winds accelerated as we neared the islands just off Santa Marta but once we rounded them we were in relatively flat water.   We went between the mainland and Isla El Morro and came around into the lee of the headland.   The Commercial Port is tucked up in the northern head of the bay, the marina is off the beach to the south of the port behind the marina breakwater, the entrance is on the northern end. (more info below)  You must use an agent to clear into Colombia.  Dino is the local agent, he is based at the marina and will find you.  He speaks reasonable English, brings all the forms for filling in and takes everything away to have it processed then brings it back.  There is a “temporary importation” customs form that is very important, if you are staying longer than a week or so (not exactly sure of length)  make sure that this is all processed correctly, we have spoken with a catamaran owner who had his boat impounded here because Dino didn’t process the paperwork correctly or in time (not sure which but beware).  Our total cost for checking in/out was US$75, paid when we departed and could be paid in either USD or local or a mixture.  The local money is Colombian Pesos and it’s easy to be a millionaire!  Approx rates were USD1 = COP1800, EUR1 = 2240COP or NZD1 = 1400COP. (Apr 2012)

Reference Materials – There are no cruising guides to Colombia.  It seems that Colombia is getting safer and safer all the time so maybe it will open up more for cruising.  We did a lot of research before we left and found the Tashtego website and articles by Pizzazz on the Caribbean Compass site most helpful.

Santa Marta Marina  – contact on VHF 16 or 72 (excellent English spoken by some staff)  Approx marina entrance was 11 14.67N  74 13.053W.  This varies to the waypoint advertised by the marina, there one is possibly the location of the office!  There was shallow water on the final approaches, around 2.5m close in, you head at right angles for the northern end of the wall (i.e. straight for the beach) and there was a buoy you keep to starboard then turn right and go in through the entrance.   Night arrival, as always not something we would recommend but could be done.  The outer breakwater wall that is running parallel with the beach  had purple/blue lights (not very bright) along the top of it.  We don’t recall port/starboard entrance lights.  If conditions were calm you could anchor north of the marina entrance, between it and the small fishing port, but this would be in around 3m, give yourself swing room as sometimes a light breeze from the south west comes in overnight.  Remember this is a working port with a couple of big ships coming and going a day.  If visibility was good enough , conditions calm and you can’t get anyone on the VHF then enter the marina and sneak onto the fuel dock, its a very long dock.  The fuel dock is on the left (at present no pumps but a truck comes down, not sure of price)  The marina berths are side on to the prevailing winds which can make for interesting docking, luckily it was not full and we had a double finger berth, floating dock pen to ourselves.  The marina facilities are excellent, air-conditioned bathrooms are of 5 star hotel standard, laundry with 2 washing machines and 2 dryers, and a tiny book exchange.  Get laundry tokens from the staff in the Security Hut at the road entrance for 5000COP each (make sure you put money in correct slot, easy to put it in the dryer by mistake!)  24 hour security, felt very safe and secure, we left the boat here whilst travelling with no hesitation..  WIFI the marina WIFI signal was good enough on the boat but to use skype needed to head up and sit by the office.  It is also possible to buy a Digicel Simcard (or chip as they call them), Sim costs 19,000COP and one weeks internet access is 25,000COP with 1.5GB I think.

In and around Santa Marta – There is a excellent 2 page handout, written by cruisers for cruisers you can get from the office or link to it here.  It really does tell you everything you need to know.  ATM machines would give a maximum of COP400,000 each time, which even in Colombia doesn’t go very far.  They did not give USD. Provisioning  we found the Exito Supermarket (more a Hypermarket) very good for everything but fresh vegetables. They have superb whole beef eye fillets fresh/vacuum packed in their butchery for about USD28, sublime!  Carrefour fruit and veg was good, it’s 4,000COP each way in a taxi, or minibuses go too from just outside the marina, they have Carrefour in their window.  There are many stalls around the Exito selling fresh produce.  A bakery is just down the main street going inland opposite the marina on the left.  DHL is also on this street, before the bakery, the post office is opposite DHL.  We took a taxi up to the mountain village of Minca, either get taxi to Minca taxi station or walk along waterfront till Calle 11, walk up thru all the market stalls along here till you get to the hardware shops, the Minca taxis leave from outside Surtiferreterias No 11A-50 which is on the right side and does actually have a sign up saying Estacion Minca.  There were 4 of us and it cost 6000COP pp each way, he waited for us up there.  We also took a taxi to the nearby bay of Taganga, (but easy to get a minibus) – the taxi was 8000COP each way.  It’s a cruisy little backpackers hangout with pleasant enough beach.  Some boats have anchored in there but there have been some security issues. 

Side Trip to Cartagena – We chose to do Cartagena by bus instead of taking the boat down as we originally planned to head across to Providencia and onto Guatemala from Santa Marta.  As it happens our plans changed and we went south instead so sailed straight past Cartagena without stopping.  We booked a shuttle minibus through the marina office for 42,000COP pp each way, on the way down it picked us up from the marina and dropped us off just outside the entrance to the old town and we walked to our hotel.  On the way back we booked with the same company but we had to get a taxi to their office in Cartagena and there was no way the driver was dropping us as the marina even though we were the only passengers left and it was only 4 blocks.  Don’t remember shuttle company used but still much easier than getting local buses and not much more in cost.  Our visit to Cartagena coincided with a Heads of State Summit and President Obama was in town – bad timing on our part.  The bad part was that accommodation was at a premium and prices highly inflated.  We stayed at the Hotel Zaguán de la Huerta on Calle del Jardin in a pleasant part of the old walled town, our room was very nice but 237,900COP per night (USD132 – way over our normal budget).  It was within easy walking distance to everything within the walled town.  The up side of arriving with President Obama was that security was at an absolute peak, heavily armed police everywhere, I suspect all the street people had been rounded up and relocated, buildings everywhere had just had a very quick lick of fresh paint, hanging baskets full of flowers adorned balconies – it was incredibly beautiful and we wondered why we had ever left Europe and realised how much we missed the glorious architecture of so many of the old towns and cities there.  We stayed 2 nights and saw everything we wanted to. 

Heading South to the Rosarios -  On our exit Zarpe we stated Porvenir in Panama as our next Port of Call and asked for “all stops inbetween” to be noted, Dino said this would be done but it was not put on the Zarpe, oh well.  We left Santa Marta at 9.30am and arrived into the Rosarios 24 hours and 135 miles later, we motored for an hour to start before the breeze filled in and then for the last 2 hours in glassy seas.  It was a very pleasant and uneventful trip, we passed the Magdalena River mouth in daylight and saw very little shipping or logs - we had been warned about the logs.  The water colour certainly changed to a murky muddy brown for many hours.   The wind died completely just after dawn and we motored the last 10 miles to the Rosarios.  We anchored on the northern side inside the reef.  This is NOT an anchorage you would want to head for with ANY following sea, you would also not want to get caught in there if northerlies came up as the reef is below water level so protection would not be good.  We had perfect conditions for our stay. Waypoints for entry (use at your own risk - try to have good visibility – go slow – and remember we draw 2.4m so we don’t cut corners!)  There were a few posts that we could see on our final approach, the one you want is at 10 11.07N 75 44.50W, it lines up quite well with an olive green two storey house on shore.  Keep this post to starboard, it is on the reef but stay reasonably close as there is also reef on the left.  Turn quite sharply after it to the right heading for 10 11.01N 75 44.65W then you go between 2 posts and turn sharply to the left.  The following 3 waypoints are close together and give you a general line to follow  10 10.97N 75 44.64W – 10 10.90N 75 44.47W – 10 10.90N 75 44.31W, this is all quite close to shore and inside some more posts.  We anchored at 10 10.921N 75 44.299W in 5.5m sand.  A local yacht came in from the other direction between the house on the island and the mainland but we did not see where they came through the reef.   

This is a very interesting group of islands, some just tiny rocks, others the size of a football field, some even bigger but nearly everyone had some sort of structure on it, whether it be a tin shack or a palatial holiday home.  We explored them all by dinghy, there certainly looked to be opportunity to anchor on the southern shore but it is reef strewn so you would need to do a exploratory trip first with GPS and depth sounder in the dinghy before taking the big boat.  I don’t remember if we had cell phone coverage there, but there were no free WIFI signals.  There was a small resort just along from the anchorage and a much bigger one on the south shore, we didn’t go into either.  No visits from any officials.  The snorkelling on the outside of the reef where the first post is (where you did the sharp right) was very good, interesting seabed contours worth a look if calm and sunny.  

Further South to the San Bernados -  We exited the Rosarios the same way we entered and did a big loop around the shoals to the west before we headed south.  We encountered a very solid pole sticking out at 10 02.407N 75 48.577W, it was in the middle of nowhere in very deep water.  We went round the eastern end of Isla Tintipan and made our way along the southern shore.  We had total cloud cover when we arrived and dropped anchor at  09 47.258N 75 50.329W in 7.5m sand and rock.  With better visibility we may have chosen a spot further in.  Conditions while we were there were squally and the anchorage a little choppy.  We did take the dinghy almost along to the tiny island where everyone lives, we didn’t go right there as there was a small Navy boat on the dock and we didn’t want to draw attention to ourselves.  The main island seems to be exclusively owned by a few rich Colombians who come down to entertain and party in their waterfront mansions on occasion.  Officials  We were woken at 6am by a boarding party from the Navy/Coast Guard, all in full combat gear with machine guns.  One spoke reasonable English and they asked for our papers.  It was now 6 days since we had checked out of Colombia but this was not raised as a problem, they asked when we were leaving and we said the following day as the weather was not favourable that day.  They radioed all our information to their “Mother Ship”, filled in a few forms, and were extremely polite and professional and left after about 20 minutes.  No WIFI signals, can’t remember about phone coverage but there probably was a tower on the little island.

Onto the San Blas/Kuna Yala -  We retraced our track around the east then north of  Isla Tintapan before setting sail westwards to Isla Pina in Kuna Yala, Panama, 136 miles and 25 hours later.  We sailed until we were 10 miles out when we motored into 20 knots on the nose, we were NOT supposed to get a westerly!

To see all our main blog postings with photos click here.  Then scroll down the left hand sidebar and click on Colombia for all postings relating to Colombia or Rosarios or San Bernados just for them.  There will also be a separate posting for Providencia which we visited in December 2012

Bonaire ….. March 2012

BONAIRE – Kralendijk   12 09.426N   68 16.841W
There is no anchoring permitted in any of Bonaire's waters.  Overnight stays are only permitted on the moorings buoys off the town of Kralendijk (USD10 per night).  There are other mooring buoys around the island but these are only for day use when diving/snorkelling.  We were about middle in the row of buoys, in about 8.5m of very clear water, you can dive or snorkel off the boats!  To the north (left) there were about 15 going all the way along to the marina entrance, they are in single file along the shallows in shore.  To the south (right) towards the town there are two rows of buoys, the ones closest inshore seemed to have a depth of around 3 metres, they are only just in front of the 2nd row and very close to the beach.  Only the buoys with 2 little floats and 2 lines are the correct ones.  You need to have 2 lines to attach, one for each float.  Night arrival is reasonably straightforward, just keep nudging up towards the land very slowly until you can see the line of boats then try and find a free mooring.  Just to the left of our waypoint were two regular looking mooring buoys which were picked up by boats doing night arrivals, just leave first light and get a proper one before you are spotted!  Most boats prefer to be away from town as there are a couple of late night bars, especially at the weekend.  There are a couple of dinghy dock options.  Karels Bar is set over the water and you can tie the dinghy up (they have the late night music) but you really need a stern anchor and remember NO anchors.  We paid USD10 a week and got a key for the dinghy dock at the “marina” with about 10 berths outside It Rains Fish Restaurant.  Get key from Henk, in a yellow house with wooden shutters about 3 to the left of restaurant. 

Checking in is along the waterfront to the south, fruit stall on the way, keep walking till you see the Douane (Customs) Building just before gated off area.  One stop, open 7am – 7pm daily, no charge, all crew must be present, quick and easy. Tourist office is along this end of town. one block back.  They were extremely helpful and we organised our Total Car Hire through them.  Total came and collected us from the dinghy dock and took us to the airport for the paperwork.  Small car USD$58.00 (USD is the currency of Bonaire), we used USD10.00 petrol for one day.  There really isn’t much to see on the island but still interesting to get out and about for the day.  Most of the shops are on one street, one block inland from water, running parallel – there is not much here, but does have Digicell, Banks, ATM’s etc on this street.  There were pay wifi signals available at anchor, also found one unlocked but not reliable, we went daily to Lilly’s Ice-cream and Coffee Parlour they had free internet at good speeds, on street going inland called Kaya L D Gerharts I think.  Keep walking past here to big supermarket on next corner, if the boat/plane has arrived then produce was good.   Budget Marine are also in the back here.  There is a laundry (not self service) out by the stadium and another couple of supermarkets, they are a fair distance, saw them when we had the car, be ok to bike to but quite a way to walk.   We had an exceptional meal at La Guernica, on the waterfront to right of dinghy dock, mains around USD28 (normally over our budget but we had been in the boonies for a couple of weeks and spent no money!)excellent food, service and setting. 

You need a Marine Park Permit, USD10 to snorkel or USD25 to dive, think it’s valid a year.  We got ours from the Yellow Submarine Dive Shop, its on the waterfront heading north towards the marina, not surprisingly it's in a yellow building and has it's own dock (totally dinghy unfriendly unless you are an acrobat). The snorkelling was the best over on the little island Klein Bonaire, fair run in the dinghy but worth it.  Need to tie dinghy to a mooring and swim in.  Water (US.10c per gallon), Diesel (US1.09 per litre) and Petrol (US1.52 per litre) available along at big marina, north at end of mooring buoys, you need to pay for your buoy here, either dinghy down or walk.
To read our full blog update on Bonaire and see the pictures click here 

Venezuelan Islands – Blanquilla, Los Roques & Las Aves ….. Mar 2012

REFERENCE MATERIALS AND EXIT PAPERS FROM GRENADA
When we checked out of Prickly Bay in Grenada we gave Bonaire as being our next Port of Call.  We were unsure of whether we would be able to check in and out of Venezuela so felt that would be the best option.  We used the Cruising Guide to Venezuela and Bonaire by Chris Doyle which was a good enough reference guide.  Our CMap electronic charts weren’t great, but we did have detailed paper charts also.  As with any reef navigation it really is an eyeball affair and is best done with the sun behind or overhead and preferably clear skies, not always possible unfortunately.  Remember “If in doubt – stay out”

BLANQUILLA ISLAND – Two Palm Beach    11 50.276N   64 38.864W
12.4m clear water, could get in closer but we were under tow (what fun).  Absolutely magical place, water fairly flat even though there was a reasonable swell running, good enough protection from the wind.  We came in from the top of the island, avoiding the southern tip as there is a settlement there and we didn’t want to draw attention to ourselves.  There were a few small local fishing boats around, including the helpful ones that towed us in.  They brought us fish the following day, nice guys.  Just nothing there except a wonderful long white sandy beach, reasonable snorkelling on the rocky/reefy outcrops off the beach.  Had 2 nights there without seeing anyone of authority.  No phone coverage.

LOS ROQUES – Several anchorages below
We did not attempt either of the two channels that you can enter through the reefs before the island of Grand Roque.  There was a very big swell running (wind around 25 knots and swell about 3 – 4  metres) so carried on and went around the top of Grand Roque and down its western shore.  We got fairly flat water once in its lee but some pretty lively bullets flew across the water.  Probably was phone coverage here but didn’t check.  No phone coverage, stores, restaurants – anything - anywhere else in the Roques or Aves.

Grand Roque   11 56.706N   66 40.856W
Dropped in around 3m settled in 8m, hard sand and coral.  Very shallow for quite a way out then drops right off.  We had planned to go ashore to try and obtain a cruising permit.  Information on just what this would entail and the cost was very vague as no one else we knew of had been here this season and affairs in Venezuela seem to change by the day.  Our friends on Bandit (who we buddy boated from Grenada to Colombia with) dropped their dinghy and went across to a neighbouring Swedish boat.  The Swedes had just been ashore to get a permit and had been quoted USD900 (we think for just 5 days).  When they tried to negotiate they were told they could not have a permit at all and had to leave immediately.  They were heading east – into the swell and winds we had just come from – so objected strongly pointing out that it was unsafe to leave port, they were then given 48 hours to leave and were told they could not move from where they were currently anchored.  Welcome to Venezuela!!  Bandit and Balvenie decided to slip out of the anchorage and away from the officials, find somewhere a little more remote to anchor, and play it by ear!  We did not see or were not approached by anyone of authority during our entire stay in Venezuelan waters spanning 02 – 15 March 2012.

Crasqui   11 52.934N   66 43.852W
10m sand, down the bottom end of the island off lovely sandy beach.  Found many unrecorded shallow spots (3m) on our way into anchor but took it very slowly.  There was quite some current where we were and we may have been better a little further north. Reasonably flat water but no cover really from wind.  Lovely long white sandy beach.  Landed dinghy on south of island and went through a shell lined short walkway to windward side for reasonable snorkelling off the beach.  Huge pile of conch shells on beach (thousands).  A couple of huts ashore that looked like they may have served lunch but a little hard to tell really, they were not that welcoming!

Augustin   11 52.168N   66 43.338W 
12m sand off the fishermens huts.  Need to eyeball reef end on entry, CMap was a little out.  Nothing much there, again quite a lot of current so fairly agitated sea all night slapping against the boat.

Sarqui   11 53.588N   66 48.356W
Dropped in 4.5m settled in 8m in a sandy spot.  Lovely small island.  Tried to find our way in to anchor off Espenqui but couldn’t get in close enough so carried on to Sarqui.  Did some good snorkelling off the windward side of the island, just walked around there and swam out to coral heads.  Super beach for watching the sun to set but as with all the anchorages so far, it offered very little respite from the constantly howling wind. Nothing ashore.

Cayo Remanso at Isla Carenero     11 53.103N   66 50.679W
Headed straight towards the sandy wee beach on the right as you come in and dropped in 5m.  The good thing about the trade winds blowing constantly is that you know you are not going to swing!  We stood off the entrance while 2 yachts came out, the entrance does not have a passing lane, very narrow but short and easy to see once you are abeam of it in good light.  We loved this anchorage, all round protection, dead flat water, shelter from wind behind the mangroves, small but “big enough for sundowners” beach, clear water and the most stunning lagoon with good snorkelling off our stern and plenty of places for dinghy exploration.  Absolute top spot and we risked two nights here.

Elbert Cay/Bequevé   11 50.606N   66 55.806N
Sat in 2.4m (yes we draw 2.3m!!!) and we were still a fair way offshore.  Anchorage was quite different to what we were expecting from the guide book.  Wasn’t great but ok.  The wind whistled through.  Big long beach to walk along, good for birds and lots of jet black lizards. Good jump off point to Las Aves

LAS AVES – Anchorages below

Isla Sur – Aves de Barlovento    11 56.677N   67 26.379W
12m sand/mud?  Think we were in the western most anchorage of the four shown in the guide book, tucked up behind mangroves out of the wind and off a small beach in the corner.  Was reasonably straightforward to enter.  Wonderful inlets in the mangroves to explore and we took the dinghy in with our happy hour drinks and spent ages floating around watching all the bird life. Exceptional.  Nothing ashore on this island but there was some sort of shack on Isla Oeste that looked to have inhabitants but we saw no one.  Lighthouse was operational.

Chinook Wind Reef – Aves de Barlovento     12 00.574N   67 25.928W
8m in sand patch amongst coral heads.  Not somewhere we not normally would have gone to anchor but we wanted to visit our friends abandoned boat Chinook Wind  which had ended up on the reef here in the middle of the night just 2 weeks prior to our arrival.  We were anchored inside the outer reef in reasonably flat and very clear water.  The roar of the surf breaking on the reef and the unobstructed wind howling through the rigging were somewhat off-putting, but we dropped anchor, launched our dinghies and went with Bandit the final distance inside the reef to Chinook Wind. A sorry sight but pleased we made the effort and said our farewells.  Conditions eased to just under 20knots so we decided to stay the night.  Snorkelling on the surrounding coral bombies was excellent, an abundance of fish life and very clear water although the corals were not very colourful.  Note there is no lighthouse at this northern end of the reef - it is on the southern tip quite some distance away.

Curricai/Long Island – Aves de Sotavento   12 02.524N   67 40.768W
7.4m sand with coral patches, probably could have gone in much closer and only had sand.  We came in around the top of the group, cleared the reef then made our way down in deep water on the leeward side.  This island was just gorgeous, another sundowners on the beach island, walks along the sandy shore, snorkelling on the windward side was good.  Great spot and could have stayed longer but there is a coastguard outpost on a neighbouring island and we had had a very good run at being undetected, so we just stayed one night and quit while we were ahead.  From here it is just 43 miles to Bonaire, and back to civilisation.

click here to go to our full blog with the stories and photos on all our travels.  To find the updates on the Venezuelan Islands click on that link in the labels on the left sidebar.

The Grenadines – Canouan to Union Island….. Jan/Feb 2012

CANOUAN – Charlestown Bay  12 42N  61 19W 
5.5m clear water, sandy bottom.  Only stayed the night and never went ashore but it really looked rather pleasant.   Lovely clear water, easy enough access through the fringing reef and port/starboard markers were in place.   A little roll but not too bothersome.  Unlocked wifi, good signal.  The island is dominated by a low rise resort complex with just a very small town.  We didn’t need to clear in as we had already checked into “St Vincent and the Grenadines” in Bequia but other cruisers managed to check in at the airport but said it wasn’t that straightforward, check in charges apply.  The pass between the islands of Bequia and Canouan was pretty lively with 25 knots N/E blowing and big seas.
To read our full posting with photos on Canouan on our Yacht Balvenie Blog click here

MAYREAU – Saline Bay  12 38.16N  61 23.89W
4.5m sand and weed bottom.  Didn’t hold the first couple of places we tried as too much weed but found a sandy patch here on the left side of the bay.  Keep out of the way of the main dock, the ferries come in at speed but there are only a couple a day so not bothersome, one does come at night, make sure you have a good anchor light.  The wind seemed to be less on this side of the bay also.  We would have liked to stop at Saltwhistle Bay a little further north but it is tiny and was filled to capacity.  We tied up our dinghy at the other smaller dock.  On one occasion one of the locals “looked after it” for EC$5, he wanted more we felt no threat leaving it there and didn’t feel it needed protection! Rubbish dump inland behind beach on the right, bit of a walk but nowhere to drop it.  Again we didn’t need to check in but there didn’t appear to be any facilities here anyway.  Lovely sandy beach but frequented by Cruise Ships that anchor off and ferry passengers ashore during the day.  Steep walk up hill, small minimarkets on left, internet (nowhere ashore had wifi but did get very random signals on boat with aerial) Walk right to the top to the Catholic Church on the right, lovely little old church and outstanding view around the back of it of Tobago Cays. Bakery opposite church but random opening hours.  A couple of colourful shacky reggae bars up the hill, stalls selling t-shirts, rasta hats etc by dock.  Quite a good snorkel off rocks at north end of bay, snorkelling on the wreck was no good. Very laid back place.
To read our full posting with photos on Mayreau on our Yacht Balvenie blog click here 

TOBAGO CAYS – 2 anchorages below

Petit Rameau – 12 38.15N 61 21.74W
We went around the bottom of Mayreau and up through the reefs in good light but 25 – 30 knots wind.  Best to do with good visibility (sun high in the sky NOT looking into it).  Dropped in 3 metres sand, settled back into around 8m just behind the little island, some boats anchored in the channel between the 2 islands there looked to be much more current there.  We had good shelter from the wind here (it was over 25 knots and we were getting around 15 knots) but sea was a little choppy.   Easy dinghy ride across to the larger island and a good short walk to the top for great view (need shoes).  Park Rangers came and collected our Park fee of EC$10 per person per night ( we were not approached the following day so only paid one night)  A couple of little stalls ashore selling t-shirts etc, nothing else. No wifi, don’t even think we had phone signal.   We did not go through this passage to get around to the main anchorage, we took the longer way around, it looked very shallow but many boats went through. 

Baradal Island – 12 37.98N  61 21.41W
Nudge right in close to the netting for the turtle enclosure and drop anchor in a sandy patch in around 3 metres, fall back into around 7 – 10 metres.  If you don’t go up close someone will try to anchor in front of you, this is a seriously busy place!!!  We had the full force of the wind here but seas were flat and no swell.   You can either swim up to the Turtle Enclosure or dinghy to the little island with the sandy beach.  The water was very murky when we were there, we saw 3 turtles.  You can snorkel on the other side of the island but there were about 30 kite surfers whizzing through there and snorkelling did not look a safe option.  Snorkelling on the outer reef edge is supposed to be very good but in 25 – 30 knots of wind we did not think this was safe either.  This would be a magic but always busy place in light breezes.   Park fees as above if ranger comes around.  No cafes, bars, wifi – just escape from it all!!
To read our full posting on the Tobago Cays with photos from our Yacht Balvenie Blog click here

PALM ISLAND – did not stay
Has good reef coverage both ends but we could not get out of the swell and it was too rolly to stay, looked cute though, resort ashore.  Clear water

UNION ISLAND – 2 anchorages below

Frigate Island – 12 34.93N  61 26.31W
After leaving Tobago Cays firstly we went to Palm Island but it was too rolly.  Then we went to Clifton but it was very full and we were still getting over 25 knots and did not feel happy trying to squeeze in so we went another couple of miles west to the Frigate Island anchorage, anchored behind the isthmus which was high enough to offer respite from the wind at deck level and flat water.  Dropped in 3m settled in 3.5m, (maybe mud – murky bottom) probably should have tried to nudge in even further.  Great for a calm nights sleep but nothing there except for a strong unlocked wifi signal.  Would be possible to do long dinghy ride ashore and walk to Clifton

Clifton Harbour – 12 35.66N  61 24.67W
2 mile bash to windward to get back to Clifton.  Anchorage had emptied out and winds eased to a manageable 20 knots.  We anchored just by the Happy Island Bar, nudged right into very shallow clear water in sand to drop by the reef, settled back in around 6m.  Water was flat, much better than over western side (on the other side of the roundabout reef) where some swell was coming around the southern reef.   There were boat boys offering mooring buoys, they were quite persistent until we dropped a little anchor chain down then they left us alone.  We took the dinghy into the resort furthest to the right, (name forgotten)they had a dinghy dock, with a very helpful staff member.  Wifi but not good signal.  There was a small charge but it was valid as a credit towards drinks, however the coffee was undrinkable and when we went back at happy hour they had run of beers, all rather run down, real shame as great spot.  Walk along the water into town, just before the very colourful main square area there are the offices for checking in/out of St Vincent and the Grenadines on the right side of the street.  Make sure you are not there around lunch time as they will charge overtime, ask first!  The street behind there has a bank with ATM and a supermarket (nothing great).   In the main colourful square there are many fruit/veg vendors.  Prices about the same as we have been paying since Bequia.  Some have fridges with salad goodies, herbs etc, just ask.  Down the main street a little further on the left is another covered stall fruit/veg market.   Close by on the same side was another “supermarket” not good either but it did have Grenada courtesy flags for EC$20 (and an open bible on the counter).  Opposite a small French deli had lots of foreign goodies at a price.  There was a Digicell store, it was the first colourful building you come to.  We managed to get the same unlocked wifi signal we had had in Frigate Bay but not too good here, ok for checking emails but that was about it.   We had dinner ashore upstairs in the Big City, a little tricky to find the stairs to enter it, they had hot local counter food at very cheap prices (conch cost more).  It’s where the locals eat , NO alcohol served.  Excellent cheap and cheerful meal.  Water available at a dock (has big sign), can’t remember price but thought it was expensive.
To read our full posting with photos on Union Island on our Yacht Balvenie Blog click on click here

Bequia ..... January 2012

We anchored at 13.00.52N  61.14.36W once our depth sounder worked we discovered we were sitting in around 18 metres!, holding very patchy, depths very variable.

If coming from Barbados the pass between Bequia and St Vincent has quite disturbed water off the top of Bequia. As you come down the east coast of Bequia if the wind is over 20 knots there probably won’t be much respite from the roll until you are almost ready to turn into Port Elizabeth, it just follows the island down. There is a marker (lit at night) on the end of the shoals on port as you come around into Port Elizabeth. Night entry would NOT be recommended as this is a very busy anchorage, littered with yachts, local craft, mooring buoys, large fishing boats - many unlit. The bottom is very undulating and holding is very poor in places. The middle of the harbour must be kept clear for the ferries, it is not the sort of place you can drop at the back of the anchorage and find somewhere else in the morning. We had strong trade winds (consistently over 20 knots) the entire time we were there, with regular rain squalls and stronger gusts coming over the island. If you can squeeze in at the head of the bay it is definitely the best place to be.

There are several dinghy docks, go to the main one at the head of the bay (to the right of all the ferries) for “town”. Just turn left and the Revenue Office is in the green building on the right. Check in here for Customs and Immigration, all straight forward and quick, cost of EC$35 per person. Check out papers from previous port required. Watch for overtime charges which seem to be Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday.  Approx exchange rate USD1.00 = EC$2.65 end January 2012

If you keep walking you will find the fruit and veg market on your left, open 7 days, with the fish market in front of it. Nearly every item is ferried in from St Vincent and we found the produce reasonably expensive and some quality quite poor. Example prices Tomatoes EC$6 per pound, 4 Mangoes for EC$10, Lettuce EC$5, Bananas .50c each, Avocados EC$5 each. Next to the market are the big green rubbish bins, there is a dinghy dock right here also.

On the other side of the road there are a couple of bakeries (bread around EC$6, baguette EC$5), bank with ATM machine, and 2 Knights Supermarkets, the one down the side street was bigger, better and cheaper. If you continue walking up the small hill and down to the water you will pass the Museum, North Sails Loft and a small Chandlery.

Back in the centre of town there is a bookshop (Courtesy flags EC$76!!!), Digicell Office with internet, our ongoing sagas with trying to get wifi continued but they told us that it was unlikely to work at the islands further south as poor signals and would go onto roaming once we passed Union Island. (Note: added 10Feb 2012, we have been able to pick up unlocked wifi - with external aerial - everywhere but Tobago Cays so far as we head south) There is another chandlery with sail loft above one street behind, and another chandlery on the waterfront where the road ends and the walkway starts. The pizza place by Digicell had good pizzas (and hot baguettes during the day), and if you walk around the waterfront walkway there are several cafes, (more dinghy docksaround here too) the Green Shed has good cheap and tasty Rotis and Fig Tree has free wifi and good meals. It is impossible to find a decent coffee. Marias Laundry was almost opposite the dinghy dock, (in behind Marias Internet café) self service ECS12 per load, big machines.  Could pickup a couple of unlocked wifi signals at anchor with external aerial but patchy. 

Island Tour  took about 2 ½ hours and we negotiated a rate of USD$25 per hour, shared between us all it was worthwhile and our taxi driver Donovan was very informative.

to read more about our stay in Bequia, along with photos click on this link http://www.yachtbalvenie.blogspot.com/search/label/Bequia  

Barbados ….. January 2012

Carlisle Bay  13.05N  59.37W  8metres  

Straight forward enough big bay for night time entry if necessary.  It looks like a sandy bottom but some of it is finely ground coral and parts are a hard shelf therefore pull back real hard.  Several boats took more than one attempt to hold.  Holding is reputed to be better and there looked to be less roll closer in and in the middle of the bay (between moorings), however the jetskiers come and go from there and also it is a much longer dinghy ride. We suffered from a roll of varying degrees most of the time

We weren't required to take Balvenie around to the dock to check in, although we understand a couple of boats had been asked to the previous week.   Mark went around in our dinghy, its a fair way, you need to go west from the anchorage, into the ferry/cruise ship  terminal and tie up to the wall in the top right hand corner.  Don’t lock dinghy in case they need to move it.  First go upstairs to Health, then Customs then Immigration.  No charge to check in.  If anyone is leaving the boat in Barbados you need to advise authorities on arrival.  Can purchase duty free on arrival and departure (Mt Gay cheaper than in supermarket or factory).  It costs BAB100.00 (USD50.00) to check out, Customs first, then Immigration.  

For town take the dinghy in through the breakwater (there are two different channels/entrances, use the one on the right/closest to the beach), keep going as far as you can go all the way up through toewn basin, under the lift up bridge into the upper basin.  Dinghy dock - tie up on right hand side anywhere, there are ladders and cleats, security during the day (although we never felt the need for it) small rubbish bins are right there.  There is a bank on the corner across the road with ATM machines, Jan 2012 rate was USD$1.00 = BAB$2.00, there were several other banks in town.  Cross the road from the bank heading inland away from the canal, Bus Station area is on the left with a few fruit/veg stalls outsdie, and within the first block is Jordans Supermarket on your right (poorly signposted).  Not bad except for fresh produce which was very poor.  Frozen meats, NZ cheese, everything expensive compared to Spain - glad I stocked up so much!. Once again the advice is....Load the boat in Gibraltar, Spain and again in the Canaries...big time !!!  (footnote …. Barbados choice and pricing is better than our next stop of Bequia).   I didn’t go to the local produce market but heard it wasn’t great either.  Lime WIFI BAB20.00 for a week, picked up signal ok at anchor, its not a simcard just one of the signals you can get in the bay (there were a couple of unlocked that worked but a bit hit and miss).  You get the code from the Lime Shop, its in the pink building with green canopies that is on your left as you come into the canal (can tie dinghy there too but quite hard to climb up wall).  Plenty of discussion as to whether the Digicell Dongle Sims would work in the rest of the Caribbean, (Digicell said yes but we think it would have gone onto roaming but who knows??) it was quite a different plan to what was offered in the other islands so none of us risked it!   American Visas can be obtained here, need to fill out form online and have a digital photo, there was a photo printing shop where you can get photos, (sort of opposite Jays Lucky 7 Bar), for visa allow 7 working days, can come through sooner, must pay by cash.  For sail repairs call Doyles (1246) 423 4600 x102 Andy, they will come and collect from Yacht Club (fun landing if there is a swell running!).  BBC World Service Radio on 92.1

For Oistens Friday Night Fish Fry catch a bus or minibus out (around 20 minutes), we were told it doesn’t open till 7pm but it was in full swing when we got there and very busy.  The cricket was BAB10.00 each and well worth it, easy to walk to. Mt Gay Rum Factory was BAB16.00 each and includes tastings of 3 rums.  We took a minivan but it isn’t too much further than the Cricket Ground (Kensington Oval).  Buses and minivans run all over the island and are BAB2.00 per person. 

To read our full blog update and see the photos go to http://yachtbalvenie.blogspot.com/search/label/Barbados

Canary Islands ..... Oct/Nov/Dec 2011

Cruising Info for Isla Graciosa, Canary Islands – October 2011

Playa Francesca
29 13.004N  13 31.755W   As far as we are aware a Park Permit is NOT required for this anchorage, we were there 2 weeks and Coast Guard came past several times but never stopped.  Some boats moved to the next anchorage north, some even to north of the breakwater when south westerlies came and were not moved on either.

15m sand. We did move in closer as space became available, some of the bottom was rock and in most of the eastern part the bottom is rock.  Dinghy landing was best on the far left beach, the far right dries out very rocky but the 2nd from the right wasn’t too bad and closer if walking into town.  The path to climb Montana Amarilla (172m) is by the far left beach, it is circuitous and takes around an hour with time out for admiring the view.  It is medium difficulty, a little steep in places and slippery shingle. The path /road to Caleta del Sebo is at the far right, follow it around then veer off to the right at some vehicle barriers when you can see the town in the distance and walk along the beach.  It’s about a 40 minute walk.  In town on the waterfront are a bakery and one small supermarket.  In the back streets are a butcher, Pharmacy, ATM machine, Post Office, 2 more supermarkets one of which has a machine in it for topping up any cellphone/datasim supplier and Rosa’s Internet Cafe (not always open but unlocked wifi signal seems to be on all the time so just sit outside).  The backstreets are a maze, but it’s not a big place.  There was Vodafone signal in the anchorage our our worldwide Gymsim worked fine.  Everyone else's Vodafone Spanish dongle worked in the anchorage, but ours didn’t, no surprise there, topped up with €40 from machine in village and it still doesn’t work, more money donated to Vodafone!  We hired our bikes from the place on the far left behind the beach in the harbour, 8€ each, same price at other places.  We did Route C on the map they give out, it took us 3 hours with lots of stops.  There are ferries from Caleta del Sebo to Órzola on Lanzarote.  There did not appear to be anywhere to “check in”, so all yachts waited till their next port of call (eg Puerto de Naos or Marina Rubicon on Lanzarote or Las Palmas on Grand Canaria)

Atlantic Morocco ..... September 2011

Cruising Info for Rabat, Morocco  Sept-Oct 2011
34 01N 06 49W
Before arriving  The marina sits on the northern shores of the Bouregreg River, about a mile inland from the river entrance.  The entrance has a bar across it between the outer (new) breakwater and inner (old and partly submerged) breakwater.  The marina should be contacted on VHF 10 about 5 miles out to advise your arrival and then again when 1 mile out.  If conditions are ok they will then send out the marina boat to the entrance to escort you over the bar and up to the Customs Dock.  If conditions are not good enough for crossing the bar they will either advise to standoff until the tide rises/swell drops or if the harbour entrance is closed suggest you continue to Mohammedia (apprx 30 miles south) which can be entered in most conditions.  

Therefore you need to time your arrival accordingly.  It seems they bring in boats from around 3 hours before high tide until 3 hours after high tide, however on the outgoing tide the bar can get more unruly so try to time arrival just before high tide.  It is also very important to watch the swell forecast.  http://www.windguru.cz/ is one site that has the wind and swell forecast for Rabat.  It is unlikely that the harbour will be open if the swell/wave height is over 6 feet, if over 5 feet it will depend on the conditions but expect an exciting ride in – with the possibility of turning the boat so the bow rides the breaking surf!!!  We came in with a 3 foot swell and very little wind and all was fine.

The marina staff seem to use only handheld vhf’s so can be hard to hear, also only a couple of staff speak English (all speak French), however they monitor 24 hours and escort boats in 24 hours.  If you can’t raise the marina staff call for any boat in the marina to relay, most boats keep channel 10 on.

Once in the river
The marina pilot boat will escort you to the customs arrival dock (North side of river) approx 1 mile inside the entrance. Generally a port side tie up. All arrival paperwork is taken care of there, it takes about an hour or so.  They also board the boat and have a good look through, some boats had a sniffer dog, we didn’t.  Everything was undertaken in a professional way. There are no charges.

Bouregreg Marina
You can walk across to view the berths once you have finished customs/immigration.  The berths in the marina are all finger berths with very short fingers that don’t have cleats.  Its rather an interesting challenge to tie up.  There are clean showers and toilets and a token operated (50 dirhams approx €4.50) washing machine.    Security is excellent.  Wifi is free and is quite good.  Cellphone Our http://www.gymsim.com/  simcard is working well here for calls and text messaging.  Fuel Dock is on the right as you enter the marina, Diesel is 7.21Dirham per litre (approx €0.65c - cheap cheap!!)  Gas Bottles European Camping Gaz bottles cost 11.00Dirham to exchange (yes approx €1.00!!) bottles are somewhat rusty though but cheap to get the bottle too.  Can't fill NZ/USA/Australian bottles but we have all syphoned from Camping Gaz.  There is a door hinge/knob shop that sells all the gas fittings to make a hose.  Directions to follow.  Alcohol Bring your own!!! Don't know of anywhere yet to buy any and hardly anywhere serves it (its detox time after all that cheap Spanish and Portugese)

More to come as we explore the surrounds.

Portugal ..... September 2011

Cruising info for Culatra  (within the lagoon area outside Faro and Olháo

Isla de Culatra  37 00.036N  07 50.470W  5m sand/mud.  Should be good holding but some boats did drag when we had 20knots one night.  Possibly a few fishing nets on the bottom?  Wonderful anchorage enclosed 360o, can get some chop in high wind but no swell at all.   Dinghy Dock go into fishing boat harbour and tie up right in the far right corner under the walkway.  It says no parking but everyone was leaving dinghies there, none were locked only tied. Facilities Ashore  A few small local bars/cafes, all very cheap.  Minimarket with good range of fresh produce, bread (need to get in morning before they sell out), small selection of good meat and plenty of cheap Portuguese wine  Wifi  No wifi cafes ashore on Culatra.  Several signals with external aerial, Vexfree is a free signal throughout the Algarve but we couldn’t get a strong enough signal.  Managed to get reasonable signal intermittently on FON ZON, it was a pay site but only €3 a day and was enough for the essentials.   Ferries  mmm….. there was a timetable ashore but maybe we were there in the changeover time from summer to winter.  The once a day ferry to Faro left at 12.35pm and returned at 4.15pm €2.60 ow or €5.00 return.  We got a ferry to Olháo at 9.30am to make the most of the morning market but the return was either 11am or 3pm so stayed for lunch too.  Think there is a 1pm back normally.  Supermarket in Olháo Pingo Doce Go straight ahead inland from the ferry down Rua da Conserveira its in the 2nd block on the left, poor signage till you are on top of it but there is a modern looking cafe with modern plaza grassed area outside that is easy to see.  Very good selection of everything, prices similar to Spain.  Fresh Market the fresh fish and fruit and veg markets are located right on the waterfront in the red brick buildings.  Very good selection

Atlantic Spain ..... August 2011

Cruising Info for Ayamonte on the Guadiana River, Atlantic Spain – August 2011
Guadiana River Entrance   The shallowest part was by the 2nd green marker, it doesn’t last long but sure gets your attention and deserves your respect.  We had no swell at all but if there had of been there wasn’t much margin for error

Ayamonte at Anchor   37 13.169N  07 24.651W  4m at LWS. Very gluey mud bottom. At springs the current and flow was really quite fierce and we didn’t feel happy leaving the boat at anchor to going ashore.  Dinghies can be left at the seaward end of the ferry dock, we asked and they were happy enough.

Ayamonte Marina  We went in a slack low water.  There was over 3.5metres in the entrance but we did get some very shallow readings in the marina but didn’t run aground.   Cost €36 per night including power, water and very poor signal wifi (it was even poor sitting outside the office under the aerial).  Very good showers and toilets, no laundry.  Excellent info board outside office with computerized Weather gribs and Windguru info.  No marina staff on the dock to help but they did allocate us a berth via VHF so we only had to dock once.  Finger berths.  There was some current in the marina but not too bad.
Supermarkets – there is a Jamon just behind the marina, it’s not great but it sure is convenient.  Meat section was good and I found some “TV dinner” vacuum packed type Meatball and Cannelloni meals that I haven't seen elsewhere that have been stowed away for the Atlantic Crossing.  There is a Supersol on the Riverfront which was pretty ordinary too.  Tracked down the excellent Mercadona on Avienda de la Constitution, can catch the circular route bus but we got a map from the tourist office and walked, less than 20 minutes. In town is the Abestos Market – the fruit, veg and fish market, only open mornings, excellent produce.  Vodafone easy to find

Ferry to Vila Real  Every 30 minutes on the hour / half hour, last one 9pm Spanish time, 8pm Portuguese time.  €1.35pp each way, buy tickets from kiosk before boarding.

Cruising Info for Barbate, Atlantic Spanish Coast – August 2011

Barbate:  36 10.96N  05 55.37W   6.4m (at high tide) sandy bottom, good holding.  Open to south and southwest and could get rolly, but there is a marina there also, we were anchored just in the entrance.  We didn’t go ashore but understand there is not much there.  Couldn’t pick up any wifi.  

Gibraltar ..... July 2011

Ocean Village part of Marina Bay Marina:  36 08.99N  05 21.95W 

Entrance to the marina is the south side of the airport runway.  Follow the runway along, the office is straight ahead - white two storey building.  Entrance into Marina Bay is on the left (keep following runway), Ocean Village berths are either straight ahead or slightly to the right.  The fuel docks are on the right wall.  There is ample room in here for dropping sails in sheltered waters (for a few yachts)   

VHF 71, phone 00350 20073300, email pieroffice@marinabay.gi   Summer rates are £22.50 a day 12-15m.  Power is 15p KWH and water 1p per litre.  Others on our dock have been charged excessively for what they should have been for water,  the water metres are not on the dock so you can’t check on arrival but it may be an idea to ask the office to have them both recorded.  We wrote down our power reading so we shall wait and see and report later.  We are on floating docks with one finger, (but with med moor bow/stern lines) the fingers are very flimsy and do not have cleats on them.  Difficult to keep the boat close for boarding, and very low for getting off at the bow!  Think we were put here because of our draft but most yachts are in Marina Bay (slightly cheaper), it is all med mooring with very high concrete piers. 

Free wifi but basically it hardly ever works, they have been upgrading it since we arrived and if anything it is now worse.  There are several bars/cafes along the marina front with free wifi.  Charlies and The Ship have unlocked signals, they seem to be where the yachties hang out and have non stop sport/news with English commentary on. 

Sheppards and Marine Maintenance are the two chandlers and are just in behind the row of cafes.  Both also perform most boat jobs.  We used M.H.Yacht Preserve, Marcus was excellent and can help with most things.  He arranged several covers to be made for Ariki Tai and they were very happy.  He has a Spanish number 0034 645131988 or Gib 00350 54009394.  He also arranges haul outs at the marina in Smir, Morocco.  He is English but speaks fluent Spanish also.  He is normally found somewhere in the marina.

Phones In the marina we are picking up Spanish signal but if I take the phone onto Main street or to Morrisons it goes onto Gibraltar signal.which is non EU.  So on Vodafone if it changes to Gibtel you go onto roaming for making calls and are also charged for incoming calls at over €1.50 a minute.  To top up you need to walk to La Linea Vodafone shop.  On Gymsim Gibraltar is on a higher rate than the rest of Europe and you are charged for incoming, best make sure you are on a Spanish signal!  

Fuel There is a very long fuel dock on the right as you come down the “runway” to the marina. It has lots of very clean white fenders. Plenty of turning room, even room to drop sails.  Diesel is 97p Petrol £1.07  Shopping  Main Street is full of Duty Free Alcohol stores, Electronics (computers with English keyboards at good prices), souvenir stores and most UK High Street Fashion retailers. 

Food Shopping -  Marks and Spencers (on Main Street right along the other end) has a small food outlet, I spotted Canadian Maple Syrup.  And then there is Morrisons come out of southern end of Marina to the road, turn right cross at 2nd pedestrian lights then take first on the left past church and school.  Keep walking, its a one way  residential street through low rise blocks and looks like a dead end but carry on and you will eventually see McDonalds and Morrisons.  Less than 10 minutes. Leave Skipper at home and find all those goodies you haven’t seen for years if you have come through the med.  I didn’t find it any more expensive than Spain (except for wine and beer) and variety, well the lockers are overflowing! 

Laundry On the lane behind all the cafes self service is £5 a load, also do service washes.

Money  Remember prices here are in Gibraltar Pounds, and that there is no VAT in Gibraltar.  Note that if you have a UK Bank Account and take money from an ATM machine it is not charged £ for £, it was processed at around 96.5p.  The NatWest ATM gives out Gib Pounds but the Barclays gives British Pounds (but still charges lower rate).  You can not get out euros.  Gib Pounds are not valid anywhere outside Gib we are told! 

Sightseeing  Local Buses (except No 5 to the airport which is easy to walk) are free and leave from just across from the Marina.  Bus to Europa Point worth the trip for a look but not much there, they go every 15 minutes, think it was No 2

Morocco ..... June 2010

Smir Marina -  35 45N   05 20W  (Mediterranean Coast, south of Ceuta in the Gibraltar Straits)
Entrance currently being dredged least depth 2.6m, stay close to the outer breakwater wall.  Depths inside marina around 4 metres plus.  Entrance would be untenable in strong (possibly even moderate) easterlies.  Need to stop at dock by office on arrival and departure for Immigration.  Berth allocation given here also.  We side tied on dock by cafes, there did not appear to be any mooring lines to med moor although I have seen photos of yachts stern tied here.  Power and water at dock, great water pressure.  Cost for 12-15 metre incl power, water & tax 490DHS, converted at 10 to 1 was 49€ (huge increase from Cruising Guide). Showers and toilets by office. No wifi.  Some restaurants along quayside, nothing else there.  Gymsim international mobile worked, Vodafone Spain went onto roaming. Supposed to be very popular in July and August, not so appealing in June.  Travelift and hardstand but no services.  Didn’t see any ATM’s

Ceuta Marina in Spain is nearby.  See Spanish info.

Mediterranean Spain .... 2011

CURRENTLY AGUILLAS TO LA LINEA BELOW - Cartagena is separate post, Atlantic Spain will be on a separate post also

Aguillas at anchor:  37 24.31N  01 34.17E 
6m sand.  Able to tuck in quite well, flat water.  Busy with fishing boats entering/leaving harbour and some wash from them.  Didn’t go ashore.  No free wifi signals, used Vodafone dongle.

Cabo de Gata at anchor:  36 44.54N  02 12.98E
6m sand.  Considering the sea state less than a mile away this was flat as a pancake.  Quite scenic ashore but didn’t get there.  When wind eased we were lying to current or tide, something weird going on.  Would be a nice spot to stop in good conditions, walking ashore looked good.  We had a westerly change forecast for early the next afternoon but it came through at 4am.  We pulled up anchor with only 10knots but with a sea building quickly from the southwest causing us to hobby horse considerably.  Going across the Bay of Almeria we had up to 25 knots and thunderstorms so very pleased we left when we did.  No free wifi signals, used Vodafone dongle

Aguadulce Marina:  36 48.87N   02 33.71W 
least depth seen 4.5m  Totally exposed to any winds with East in them.  Marina entrance is only 50metres off the beach.  No swell in marina.  Huge breakwater where most visiting yachts were stern or bow to.  Upon entry tie to Fuel dock/Control Tower dock for berth allocation.  Not much English spoken.  Wifi available but not free, didn’t check rates.  Marina berth around €16 a night all inclusive May 2011, we are still on low season rates.   Supermarket –  go out of Marina entrance by the beach and take the first or second road on the right they both go uphill, its just up on the left.  Not great but ok.  Bus stop – carry on past the supermarket under the flyover and up the other side, bus stops on both sides of the road depending on what direction you want.  Cost was €1.20 each, each way, to Almeria.  Sightseeing – Alcazaba closed on Mondays, Cathedral closed from 2pm – 4pm but last entry is 1.15pm. 

Almerimar Marina:  36 41.78N   02 47.42W 
least depth seen 5m.  Entrance is much more sheltered than it looks but totally exposed to the south.  Well marked with red and green markers for the channel (no yellow buoys as noted in Cruising Guide)  Tie up at Control Tower/Fuel dock for berth allocation.  Marina berth around €12 a  night but we are in an 18m berth.  It was plus water and power and worked out around  €19 including tax. Again we are still on winter rates until the end of May.  English spoken in office.  This is an enormous marina and apartment complex, lots of bars/cafes, but no town as such.  Couple of laundries, chandleries and excellent Mercadona Supermarket.  Marina gives out good map, all nearby.  Wifi is €3.50 a day then gets cheaper the more days you buy.

Herradura at anchor:  36 43.56N   03 44.26W  
8.5m sand  One of the few anchorages with some coverage along this coast.  We were able to escape most of the easterly swell and if wind/swell was from the west you could tuck in over the other side of the bay.  Totally exposed to south.  Long sandy beach, ATM's on foreshore road , some restaurants.  A couple of supermarkets a block inland, closed at siesta time.  No free wifi, used dongle

Marina del Este: 36 43.67N  03 43.57W  
(We only came in here to undergo engine repairs)  Approach to entrance totally exposed to the East, there is some surge inside as swells reflects off rocks, even in light easterlies and we met a boat that had left the marina after spending 2 nights in there with 30 knot easterlies as the surge was so bad (they went to windward in 30knots to get out!!)  It is a small marina, we ended up paying up for a longer berth just so we could manoeuvre into it.  The 2 mooring lines that were pulled up were not attached to the bottom, the chain had worn through!!  They did replace them first thing the following morning but this is a very expensive marina and should be maintained accordingly.  The staff, however, were excellent, spoke good English, answered channel 09 on VHF and were ready to assist us when we were towed in.  There is a fuel berth and waiting berth on the right on entering and room there for turning.  Least depth seen 3.5m (on fuel berth).  Clean showers and toilets, free wifi, small minimarket, laundry (not self service), a few restaurants, and a couple of shops.  Mechanical repairs onsite, reasonable English spoken, €40 per hour.  Hard stand with large travel lift, .  Very steep walk over hill to Herradura town.  May 2011 Cost €55 per night plus power and water

Caleta de Velez Marina: 36 44.85N  04 04.03W
Huge breakwater, entrance exposed to south.  Very big fishing port with a lot of fishing boat traffic but marina is at far end so little noise or wash from the boats, does smell somewhat fishy.  The waiting dock is on the left past the fuel dock, it has a huge sign on it, it is only about 15 metres long and is covered in seagull droppings – wear shoes!!!  There was no one to take lines.  Plenty of turning room, depth around 5 metres from memory.  Clean showers and toilets, self service laundry €3, free wifi but weak signal.  Cost €19 per night all included still low season until 31 May.  Main road just behind marina has good bakery, not so good butcher and a couple of supermarkets (more minimarkets) within a couple of minutes walk.  there is also a Saturday morning market on this road, mainly clothes but some produce.  Lidls Supermarket is about 10 minutes away, head right (east) on the walkway along the beach until you get to a pedestrian roundabout (cobbled pavement), there is a road roundabout with a boat on it and you can see Lidls just behind it.  Buses to/from Malaga leave from main road just by the hotel with the big green hotel sign on top.  We caught one to Malaga at 12.35pm and back at 6.50pm €2.56 each one way about 1 1/4 hours there along the coast, 45 minutes back along the motorway.

Fuengirola Marina: 36 32.50N   04 36.97W 
Entrance straightforward but totally exposed to the east and quite a swell rolling in with easterly winds, not too much movement within the marina.  Depth at entrance around 4m, 3.5 at berth.  Visitors/waiting dock on right after the fuel dock, reasonable room to manoeuvre.  Not much room in fairways between docks though.  Plenty of bars and restaurants around marina area, (with English, Dutch and German menus!).  Closet ATM opposite Club Nautica restaurant in Marina complex.  Clean showers and toilets, self service laundry.   Free WIFI, average signal.  Good Mercadona Supermarket, head east along waterfront just a few minutes, it is one block back and you will see the sign and the carpark signs from waterfront road.  Bus to Marbella from bus station (about 3 blocks inland and slightly to the west of the marina) leaves 1/2 hourly on the hour abut €3 pp one way.  Marina €35 per night all incl.

Estepona Marina: 36 24.91N   05 09 .45W  
Entrance all ok we did briefly see 3m at end of wall but maybe cut the corner a little closely.  (found better depths when we left so must have cut the corner) Entrance exposed to southwest.  Visitors/waiting dock on right with little white office on it.  Good area in manoeuvre and plenty of room in fairways for a change.  Clean showers and toilets.  Laundry (not self service) on alley behind marina.  Free WIFI, good signal.  ATM by Marina office (max €300).  OpenCor Supermarket just across the road, reasonable selection but most expensive we have seen in Spain.  Estepona town quite a walk along the front to the North, not much there (found a Vodafone shop)  Marina €40 per night, think power and water will be extra, too expensive for what is here really.

Ceuta Marina : 35 53.46N   05 18.93W   (Spanish enclave on Northern African Coast opposite Gibraltar)
Plenty of room in outer harbour for dealing with sails but stay to the east side to keep out of way of fast ferries.  There is some current at final turn for marina due to through flow of water in the moat.  Fuel dock on left at entrance  Diesel €.97c a litre (cheapest for a while).  We called on VHF 9 first and they waved us straight into a berth on the wall, bow to with one stern line.  If you are too far in there is some noise at night from Spoons Bar which is on the wall (it does however have a wifi signal!)  Cost for 12-15 metre incl power, water & IVA 35.56€ p/n (another big increase to rates in latest Cruising Guide).   Showers and toilets by office. No marina wifi.  McDonalds with free wifi is just outside marina complex on the left.  Lidls Supermarket, can see sign from marina to west.  Morning fruit, veg & fish market in indoor Central Market.  Cross road from marina and walk uphill, just there (its a small town), another supermarket in behind here.  Bus No 7 to border (frontier) goes from outside market €.75c each, very regularly, takes about 15 minutes.  Our Gymsim international mobile and Vodafone Spain both worked here  ATM’s closeby.

La Linea Anchorages and Marina (boarders with Gibraltar)
1st anchorage  36 09.62N   05 21.81W  5.8m   This was further out and we may well have been ok here the whole time (i.e. maybe not moved by the Guardia Civil),  but we were getting some chop and the boats further in looked more comfortable.
2nd anchorage   36 09.39N   5 21.71W   6.5m   Great all round shelter in flat water.  Moved on after 4 nights by the Guardia Civil, possible to anchor further out which should be ok but not such good shelter. Dinghy can be taken into the Club Nautico, it is the marina for small boats on the left (Alcaidesa is on the right).  Tie dinghy on the outside end of the closet pontoon to restaurant.  Gates locked need to buzz to be let out then go to front desk to pay.  It is €5 a day but they give you wifi access too but couldn’t get their signal from the boat 
Puerto Deportivo Alcaidesa, (La Linea Marina)   Large new marina, not fully finished yet, floating docks – some with finger berths but most med mooring with dock lines provided.  Shelter from swell looked very good (would only get swell in west or nor’west), very low lying so may cop the wind.  Summer rates 12 – 15metre are €19 plus power, water and 18% tax.  Has wifi not sure if extra (it was locked).   About 10 minutes walk into town, found a Vodafone shop on main street and a reasonable Mercadona supermarket (tucked away in a back street).  There were also signs for Carrefour but we didn't go there.  English speaking British Forces Radio on 89.4FM.

Inland Excursion from Gibraltar inland to Rhonda:

Exit Gibraltar, cross the road, go left past the Diner and Car Hire, take first street on the right.  Walk down to roundabout and bus station on opposite side on right (about 5 minutes from boarder).   Bus La Linea – Algeciras  1045/1130 €2.15 pp   Train Algecira - Ronda 1145/1331 €9.15 pp (This is a “Media Distance Train”, its a local train stopping at all stops but only takes about 15 minutes longer to Ronda and is half the price of the fast trains.  It is excellent, reclining seats, air con and both left on time) Return times were Ronda – Algeciras 1616/1807 and Algeciras – La Linea 1830/1945

We prebooked the Hotel Morales, through Expedia at €30 for a double room with air con and bathroom.  Advertised rates at the hotel were €42.  The hotels location was very good, handy for all the sightseeing, the bus station and the train station.  The rooms are a little dark with only a window into the central atrium however it kept the room cool, it was very clean, quiet and comfortable and excellent value in high season.  We found a little local cafe for breakfast.

Wintering in Cartagena, Spain ..... 2010-2011

When we decided to stay another winter in Europe we looked at several options of where to spend it.  We had heard positive reports about Cartagena on the south east corner of Spain.  It is just out of the firing line of the westerly storms that can shoot through the Straits of Gibraltar heading east, tucked in enough to miss the autumn and spring north easterlies, has around 300 days of sunshine a year and a reasonably mild winter climate and an airport serviced by all the cheapie airlines close by at Murcia/San Javier.  It sounded perfect.  This blog update is mainly for those that may wish to stop by or winter over.

About the Marina ….
There are two marinas there, adjoining each other both right on the town quay and only a few minutes walk into the centre of town.  We stayed at Yacht Port Cartagena, it is the newer of the two and is home to mainly foreign flagged boats.  The older more established marina seems to be filled mainly with local craft and had few vacant slips.  They do, however, offer short stay berths on the town wall - everyone promenades past there and there is no security.
YPC is the one on the right as you enter, it is away from the waterfront cafes and set further back from the promenading locals (and behind a very long glass fence). There is excellent 24 hour security and access is gained only by key card, it also has a much more substantial solid concrete breakwater which also serves as the Cruise Ship dock.  However some berths do not lie behind this breakwater but are still reasonably protected, and there are enough empty berths that you can have your choice of position.  There is also a choice of med mooring with laid lines, side tying and finger pontoons – something for everyone.
The marina staff are an absolute delight to deal with, both the office staff and the marineras are extremely helpful, all speak English, assist with berthing, they even deliver any mail or packages right to the boat.  They put in the extra effort to make your stay as enjoyable as possible!!  We emailed them at marina@yachtportcartagena.com  to make our winter booking, they did not require a deposit and were very flexible with our arrival date.  On arrival call them on VHF 09, as you make your final approach - ensure you call Yacht Port Cartagena to get the right one! (tel +34 968 12 12 13).  Cartagena is a large harbour and has a huge area of sheltered water to sort yourselves out before entering the marina.  This is a commercial  and naval port but the Navy yards and Commercial docks are far enough away to not be of any bother.  There is no anchoring allowed anywhere within the harbour.   

The facilities are good, there is a laundry with two large washing machines and one dryer all taking tokens valued at €4,  there are just 3 showers and toilets in 2 blocks but we only had 7 live aboard boats that were onboard all winter so this was enough.  There is the “internet shed” home to one computer with free internet access, a vending machine and book swap.  There is also a bar-b-que which we made use of on some warm sunny days during winter.  There is wifi access included in the long term rates for one computer per boat.  The signal is not great but ok.  Short term rates do not include wifi it is €5 a day.  Our winter rate also included water and power.  Catamarans currently get the same berthing rate as monohulls but pay for water and power.   


There is a fuel dock with 24 hour easy sheltered access and payment is made by card into a machine.  To access it enter YPC and keep the Cruise Ship Dock/breakwater on your left, carry on till the Yacht Club Building (large wooden modern building) is in front of you, turn sharp right and tie up just after the dinghy/laser launching slipway.  There is no fuel sign/logo but the pumps are in a small white shed.  There is good turning space to get back out and depths well over 5 metres.  Diesel was around €1.33 p/l in April 2011.

Facilities in town …
Well you will not go hungry.  There is an excellent selection of supermarkets – they are all closed Sunday.  The office will give you a map and mark all of these, but just in case - The closest one is a small Spar, come out the entrance by the laundry, cross the road, up the big steps, go left and follow the road around till it comes to a T, the Spar is just over on the right.  They don’t have fresh milk but have most other things. 5 minute walk, open 0930 – 2100 I think)  My favourite was Mercadona, there are several but the closest is about 10-12 minute walk, open 0915 – 2115.  Go out the vehicle entrance, cross the road, head up Calle Gisbet, past the glass elevator, just keep on till the road veers to the right at the Artillery Museum.  Turn left and Mercadona is just on the other side of the road next to a play area.  Carry on along here for the Fresh Produce Market just another couple of minutes at the end of the street and over to the right on the other corner.  Still not found everything you need? well next is Lidls.  Out the vehicle exit again but turn right past the new mutli coloured building to the roundabout then head up the hill (slight incline) along the cycle path through the grassed area.  At top is the bus station on  the right and the little local train station.  After these cross the road and go right (main part of road goes onto the motorway, stay on the slip road on its left), this will put you in Lidls Car park.  About 12 minutes walk, open 0930 – 2130 I think.  From Lidls you can see Carrefour, go out the other gate from Lidls, the main train station is on your right.  Walk inland (north)  Carrefour Hypermarket is right in front of you.  About 15 minutes walk, open 0930 – 2200 I think.  Carrefour deliver free if you spend over €200

Local bus No 4 (every 20 minutes or so) leaves opposite Carrefour for the Parque Mediterranean Shopping Centre, its a short ride by bus but too far to walk, maybe 30 minutes by bike.  There is a huge Leroy Merlin Hardware/DIY store, a couple of electrical appliance stores, Decathlon, another Carrefour, and plenty plenty shoe and clothes shops.   In the area on Avienda Luxembourgo (Parque Med end with 5 flags flying outside) is an Accastillage Diffusion Chandlery, they are a French Chain and although the outlet is small they can order anything in and it arrives within a couple of days (some English spoken),    There are a couple of chandleries by the marina, one is in the haul out facility (English spoken), the other is further on the same road along the port about 3 minutes further on the left hand side (some English spoken).  Both are helpful and have an adequate range.  Just before the 2nd chandlery go up the steps and turn left, on the right hand side the is a plumbing supplies store with all sorts of bits and pieces(No English spoken) .  We bought several things locally but generally found it cheaper to order online from England, shipping was about 5 – 10 days.

There are a couple of options for hauling out.  We didn’t use either but some of the boats that wintered with us did.  There is a small crane lift that hauls up to 15T located next to the Fuel Pumps.  The other is located just to the east of the marina and has a very big travelift (approx 70T), they haul all the fishing fleet, but do deal with private boats also.  There yard is well organised and tidy but small.  There are no facilities for leaving yachts on the hard for any length of time.

Entertainment …
We organised a weekly get together at a local tapas bar El Barrill on Wednesday nights, and had the odd bar-b-que when the weather was warm enough.  Other than that it was a quiet social scene.  There were a reasonable amount of goings on in town, and we enjoyed free concerts and cultural events throughout the winter.  There is an English web site that does it’s best to collate all the information and sends out a weekly email newsletter, http://www.simplynetworking.es/ but even they miss things from time to time and you really need to check at the Tourist Info as well.   Cartagena is full of history, there are many museums, the Roman Theatre, Augusteum, Decumanus and  many many more ruins.  The main plaza and Calle Mayor have some lovely Modernista buildings, they there is a huge amount of restoration work underway around the town.  We spent nearly 7 months here and enjoyed it immensely.

Balearic Islands ..... Sep/Oct 2010

Cruising info for Mahon, Balearic Islands:-
Anchorage - Cala Taulera, Mahon    39 52.695N   04 18.487E   4.8m mud.  The guide book suggests this anchorage could hold up to 30 boats we thought maybe 15 would be tight.  All round cover, could get a little swell in strong southerlies
Communications - Phones: Both GYMSIM and Vodafone Malta on Roaming switched over to Spanish Movistar without any problem.  Internet Dongle:  We found a phone shop a couple of doors before the Tourist Information Centre on the waterfront close by the Ferry/Cruise Ship terminal.  The one staff member was helpful, spoke perfect English (as did everyone in Menorca) but was extremely busy.  She took all our details (need photo ID) and asked us to come back in 30 minutes, we did then waited over 30 more, then couldn't use until she phoned us much later in the day confirming it had been processed.  We purchased a Vodafone sim and 1GB credit that stays live for 3 months (works Balearics, Spain and Canaries), total cost was 85E think sim was 25E and 1GB 60E. (Update from 05 May 2011, if Sim not kept active either with credit on it or topped up it expires after 6 months, I know cos I've just bought a new one!!!, currently 15€ for sim, still 60€ for 1GB but €12 discount)  I couldn't get it to work in my NZ Vodafone Dongle but it works in my Italian Wind Dongle.  Baracca reports the Vodafone data sim does not work in Italian TIM dongles.  Signal in Cala Taulera was very poor but has been excellent elsewhere. 
Ashore - We took our dinghy nearby to the AGIP fueldock which is just left of the new marina. Diesel was 1.16E p/l.  There is a small supermarket right there also.  Follow waterfront road around to car hire on left, then phone shop, tourist office on right (15min walk) then there are stairs opposite up to old town.  Binipreu supermarket is underground in central market place by the church.  Plenty ATM's. English newspapers.
Sightseeing - Hired car from Autos Mahon Rent phone +34 971 36 56 66 Renault Megane 40E day, there was a smaller cheaper one but not available.  Used 10E petrol or the day.  
Formalities - none


Cruising info for Fornells on Menorca and Pollenca, Marina de Bonaire and Porto Petro on Mallorca:-
Anchorages -
Fornells, Pollenca and Porto Petro - Mooring buoys are available for all three of these anchorages.  We anchored at Fornells as we had 20knot bullets and could not pick up a buoy.  To book these free buoys visit www.balearslifeposidonia.eu you need to register online, they must be booked before 6.30pm the day before and are normally a maximum of 2 nights.  They seemed in good order, generally have an extra line with loop to put your line through and these should have a float on so you can pull it up with boat hook.  In Fornells they didn't have floats and as it was our first stop we couldn't work out how to connect it!!!  
Marina de Bonaire - 39 52.013N   03 08.614E   2.5m, side tied.  phone +34 971 54 69 55  Visitors dock just inside the breakwater, will place you further in if they can.  They are not happy to put boats on visitors dock in a strong north east wind because of the surge, we had a little surge (wore through our fender covers) but it was fine.  39E per night incl wifi, power and water.  Shower/toilet blocks, Laundry 3E, bookswap, very helpful small marina.
Communications - Phones: GYMSIM and Vodafone Malta on roaming both working.  Internet: WIFI at Marina (get code from office) and picked up unlocked signal in Porto Petro.  Dongle worked well for rest.
Ashore - 
Fornells -  Tied dinghy to a floating pontoon.  A few bars, cafes and restaurants for all budgets.  A small supermarket (English papers) inland back from Port office and excellent bakery on street out supermarkets back door.  Didn't see ATM but must be one as small touristy town
Pollenca -  Long way from mooring buoys to town area, we didn't go ashore here
Marina de Bonaire - Fuel dock and 30 ton travelift.  Paella great at restaurant by gate.  Turn right at gate for short walk to minimarket and a couple of bars then follow road inland from there to Alcudia, about 25 minute flat walk.  Well worth it.  ATM's in Alcudia
Porto Petro -  Either take dinghy to little dock/beach on right by beachfront cafe or into fishing boat harbour and tie to wall.  Small supermarket one block back (English papers), several eateries, no ATM
Formalities - none.  Marina checked our Boat papers but nothing else.


Cruising notes for Isla Gabina/Playa del Trench and Palma Nova, Mallorca:-
Anchorages -
Isla Gabina -   39 20.183N   02 59.118E   4.9m  clear sea, sandy bottom.  We anchored further south first to get more shelter form the swell and thought we were on sand, but when the sun came out we could see we were on a flat stone bottom with small crevices.  We moved further north to the sandy bottom, it was a little rollier but great holding
Palmanova -   39 30.931N   02 32.478E   4.0m  hard sand/weed.  Not great holding, several boats dragged in 20knots (some superyachts).  Morning breeze came in from the east (for 4 days) until around 11am then dropped off, nothing forecast from east.  Good shelter from NW to SSE, and can move to other end of bay for more N protection, or to little islands (2 miles away) for some E cover. 
Communications - Phone signal excellent, no unlocked WIFI but dongle worked well
Ashore - Isla Gabina: just a shacky beach bar at which closed at sunset.   Palmanova:  we left the dinghy on the small concrete jetty on the eastern (seaward) side as shallow as possible, not many cleats, a small ferry uses this dock so stay well in.  When full we left it on the tiny adjacent beach.  There are hundreds of eateries, dozens of little minimarkets selling (holiday) basics, the Eroski Supermarket is right at the northern end of the bay (take dinghy to tiny harbour and it's right there or walk along seafront), its on the road that goes inland and about the 2nd building on the right.  Good selection fruit, veg, meat at very reasonable prices.  Plenty ATMs, English newspapers, didn't see fuel anywhere, bus stops on road inland parallel to beach. 
Formalities - The large blue Spanish Customs (Aduana) Boat came into the bay most evenings.  We were boarded by 3 officers who asked to see our passports, ships papers and boat insurance.  They gave us a copy of their paperwork (which we showed to them the next night when they came again!!), they were polite and took just a few minutes.
Sightseeing - Buses 104, 105 and 106 run into Palma about every 20 minutes. 2.75E p/p o/w buy tickets on bus.  We stayed on till the station then went up to street level, turned right and a couple of buildings along is the Ferrocarril de Soller where you catch the tourist train. 10.00E p/p o/w. Times Mar-Oct 0800, 1010, 1050, 1215, 1330, 1510.  http://www.trendesoller.com/  Tourist office in Soller is by train station in Soller they can give you bus times for return, 210 is scenic and 211 express 2.45E p/p o/w (cheap).  Tram down to Soller port is 4.00E o/w p/p.  Palma Cathedral is 4.00E p/p.  When you catch the bus back to Palmanova the stop at the Cathedral gets very busy, we were leaving people behind in October!